Bucatini alla cacio e pepe

Cacio e Pepe: The ultimate minimalist comfort food

Cacio e Pepe has joined the ranks of Arancini, Culatello, and Ossobuco as a mainstay in the modern Italian foodie vernacular. Photos of its glistening, pepper-flecked noodles grace the pages of every food ‘zine and epicurean blog. Make no mistake, Cacio e Pepe deserves this adulation — it is a perfect comfort food.

Unlike most comfort foods though, Cacio e Pepe can be ready in a matter of minutes using only a few modest ingredients. Literally “cheese and pepper” in Italian, it is the perfect dish for when the pantry is looking a little scant, money is a bit tight, or it is 3:00am and you want the best possible eating experience with the minimum required effort. The only items needed are a box of dry pasta, butter and/or olive oil, freshly ground black pepper, and Pecorino cheese. Having said that, the quality of these ingredients makes all the difference.

Raise the bar significantly with Tellicherry, Lampong, or Malabar peppercorns purchased from a local spice purveyor. If you have pre-ground black pepper in your spice rack, do yourself a favor and throw it away. To that point, the jar of tasteless powdered Parmesan from the supermarket aisle can join the tin of pepper in the trash.

Buy imported Italian cheeses whole, preferably those stamped with D.O.P. It only takes roughly two ounces of block Pecorino cheese to equal one cup grated. Adding Caciocavallo, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and Grana Padano to the traditional Pecorino Romano elevates this classic Laziali peasant food to next-level Mac and Cheese.

Cacio e Pepe: The whole is greater than the sum of its parts

• PASTA: Cacio e Pepe is commonly made with Spaghetti; however, Bucatini is a better option. The thicker pasta cooked al dente offers a more pleasing palato — or mouthfeel. Moreover, the hole running through the middle of the pasta becomes a premium vehicle for the glossy sauce.
• BUTTER: Seek out the best quality butter that is affordable. Cheaper butter tends to have less butterfat and a higher water content, which means less pronounced flavor and an increased risk of a mess in the kitchen when it hits any hot surface. European or European-style butter is almost always a better option.
• EVOO: Choose a cold-pressed extra-virgin olive oil. Cold-pressing ensures the oil retains its flavor and nutritional benefits; furthermore, oil extracted with heat and chemical solvents may contain health risks. Avoid oil packaged in plastic containers, as the oil can leach harmful substances out of the plastic. Look for the harvest date to ensure it was produced within the past 18 months. Olive oil should be pleasant to your palate when consumed alone, just like sipping a fine wine.
• PEPPER: Freshly cracking peppercorns releases their essential oils, heightening their flavor; while toasting the cracked pepper brings out its fragrance and results in a slightly smokier flavor. In comparison, pre-ground, store-bought pepper is generally past its prime, almost always flavorless, and makes any dish — especially Cacio e Pepe — fall flat.
• CHEESE: Buy imported block cheese and grate it. Pre-packaged shredded cheeses contain fillers ranging from potato starch, powdered cellulose (which is derived from wood pulp), and natamycin. They taste bland, do not melt well, and are full of additives no one should consume. Most reasonable grocery stores have an acceptable selection of block cheeses in the deli case. Otherwise, visit a specialty shop or Italian market and explore the cheese room.