Ossobuco alla Milanese

Making fall-off-the-bone Ossobuco

Ossobuco (or Osso Buco) is Italian for “bone hole”, which is a reference to the exposed marrow bone at the center of the cross-cut veal shanks. The shanks are seared, then braised low-and-slow in a broth of stock, wine, and soffritto (onion, carrots, celery). This recipe adds leeks and root vegetables (celeriac, turnips, parsnips) to the braising liquid because they add depth of flavor and are a nice accompaniment to the soffritto in the end.

Traditionally, Ossobuco alla Milanese is served with saffron risotto (recipe found here). Alternatively, you may choose to pair the ossobuco with risotto ai funghi misti (recipe found here). The earthiness of wild mushrooms pairs nicely with the subtle qualities of veal and the flavors imparted by the leeks and root vegetables. Topping off the dish is a classic gremolata, which is the perfect complement to the unctuous, buttery bone marrow.

This is a fairly simple dish to execute. The long, slow braise handles the heavy lifting, freeing you up to do other things. Open a bottle of Soave or Vermentino and contemplate how fortunate you are — after all, you are preparing a delicacy.

Want outstanding results? Here are a few tips.

• Find a local butcher you trust — one who has access to specialty meats and will trim them to your liking. If no local butcher is available, you could speak with the butcher at the local supermarket. A third option is a specialty food purveyor, such as D’Artagnan, or one of the other boutique shops listed in the footer.
• Try supporting a local Farmers Market or joining a Co-Op because the benefits are plentiful. The produce is fresher because it is often from local farms. It is also far less costly. Items like Celery Root easily cost 2-3 times more at the grocery store. You can walk home from the Farmers Market with all the produce required for this meal — plus enough for the week — for a fraction of what you would spend at the supermarket.
• Invest in a good quality Dutch Oven, Cocotte, or Braiser for this dish. Primarily, because it is the only dish you will need from start to finish. Secondly, because they last a lifetime. Finally, because you will wonder how you made it so long without one as it becomes your go-to vessel for sauces, soups, stews, roasts, and more.
• Take the time to get a good sear on each side of the shanks. A beautiful brown crust is essential to realizing the veal’s amazing flavor potential.
• Make the most of the deglazing process by scraping all the fond (those delicious little brown bits) off the bottom of the pan.
• Use a dry, crisp white wine from the region that will not overwhelm the subtle, smooth flavor of the veal.
• If you have ethical concerns about veal, substitute pork, lamb, or venison shanks for your Ossobuco. In any case, only buy meat humanely raised in a stress-free environment with a diet free of antibiotics and hormones.